This is a PowerMaul I made for a costume for DragonCon '06, but we didn't go. This weapon is supposed to be a futuristic version of a billy-club that police carry. If you play Games-Workshop's Necromunda, you are already familiar with this weapon. It is composed of PVC fittings and some pipe, a little plasticard, rivets, and greeblies. If I had the measurements I have now, along with the experience, I could reproduce another one of these in under an hour; unpainted, of course.

To make one of these, you need:
  • 2" PVC Pipe
  • 1¼" PVC Pipe
  • 1½" PVC Pipe
  • 1" PVC Pipe
  • (3x) 2" Repair Couplers
  • (1x) 2"-1½" Flush Bushing
  • (1x) 1" Cap (Rounded Top)
  • (1x) 2"-1¼" Reducer
  • (2x) 1½"-1¼" Reducers
  • (1x) 1¼" Repair Coupler
  • (2x) 1½" Repair Couplers
  • (1x) 1¼"-1" Reducer
  • (1x) 1" Plug
  • (1x) ¼ -20 Screw eye (Machine Threads)
  • (2x) ¼ -20 Nylon Insert Nuts
  • Plasticard
  • Rivets (Medium or Long)
  • Greeblies

Before gluing anything together, read these instructions all the way through, and dry-fit EVERYTHING to test for part fits and to make sure lengths are what you need.
Different PVC fittings have different dimensions, so take your time.

  1. Cut the 2" Pipe into two 1½" sections, the 1¼" into an 858" section, the 1½" into 3¼" and 538" lengths, and the 1" into a single 558" peice.
  2. Put 1" cap on one end of the 1" pipe.
  3. Drill a hole through the 1" plug and bolt in the screw eye.
  4. Assemble the 3 2" couplers, 2" pipe peices, and the flush bushing, leaving about 316" spacing between couplers.
  5. Insert 1" assembly into the assembly from Step 2.
  6. Insert the 538" pipe section into the flush bushing, followed by the 2"-1¼" reducer. Push everything tightly together. You'll probably have to do some trimming and sanding of the outside of the 1" cap and inside of the 538" pipe section. Look at the photos for reference.
  7. Cut the 1½"-1¼" reducers to about 1" long, leaving the flanges. I actually had to get another one of these reducers, and since Home Depot did not have 1" plugs, I went to Lowes, where many of their fittings have the hexagonal flange. I thought this would be a nice detail to add to the maul.
  8. Assemble the cut reducers, 1½" repair couplers, and the 3¼" and 858" pipe sections.
  9. Add plasticard to the 2"-1¼" reducer. These should just fit around the 1&12"-1¼" reducer. See the photos to clarify this.
  10. Leaving the plasticard sticking out most of the way, add plastic glue to the inside faces and around the smaller reducer, then assemble the two parts, pushing the card into the large reducer. PRESS TIGHTLY TOGETHER AND CLAMP IF YOU CAN.
  11. Assemble the 1¼" coupler, 1" plug, and final reducer on the 1" and 1¼" pipes.
  12. Press the entire assembly tightly together.
  13. Drill 18" holes for rivets around the joint in Step 10, and rivet together. This will help secure the joint together, as well as adding some detail.
  14. From this point, add any details you see fit. I used two skulls from Halloween rings, along with some "plastic canvas" to detail the shaft. The power cable is just a plastic hose from a squirt gun, with some plastic cylinders to secure it, wrapped in wire to give a ribbed effect. The large "rivets" are 38" wooden plugs from the craft store.
  15. I would suggest drilling all your holes before gluing everything together, as having a PowerMaul that rattles is embarassing.
  16. I wrapped the grip in burgundy vinyl cut in a strip. It took some time, but I think it adds some nice contrast and color, as well as a finishing touch.


Finished Photos

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